How To: Remove the Front Wheel
Whether you're just getting a new tire or you're digging into more advanced service items like brakes or forks, removing your front wheel is key. Provided you have stands, you don't need many tools to do it and you can be done with it in less than 15 minutes.
Some Tools Required
You won’t need many tools for this process, but some of them are rather specific. Fortunately those are also relatively inexpensive.
You will need these tools, though sizes will vary by model.
Stands
First and foremost you are going to need your front wheel off the ground and your bike steady. I use front and rear stands to accomplish this. Read my review of two mid-priced rear stands here. This will steady your bike on three points and keep both you and your bike safe.
Hand Tools
Most of these will serve multiple purposes for other tasks. The only ones which don’t are pretty inexpensive.
Axle Specific Tools
You will need the appropriate tool for your bike’s front axle. In the case of my 2005 GSX-R600 front end, I needed a 24mm hex. Check online for your bike’s specific sizing because they do vary from model to model and year to year. Be sure to pick up a socket in the same size while you’re at it.
Basic Wrenches
The size and style of these will also vary, but you will need to have the correct tools to accomplish a couple tasks. Make sure you have wrenches appropriate for your brake caliper bolts and pinch bolts which are located at the bottom of your forks. As I said, these can vary. A good example of this variation is the two bikes I own. The Suzuki has hex head bolts on the forks and hex allen bolts on the calipers while my Triumph is exactly the opposite.
More Leverage
The front axle is on there good and tight, so a standard ratchet is not going to get the job done. For this, you’ll most certainly need a breaker bar. For my Suzuki, the torque is set at 100 Nm and there’s no way a standard socket wrench is going to loosen the axle. Or maybe I’m just a wimp.
A decent torque wrench is a mainstay of any garage, so don’t hesitate to pony up for one. I use feel for a good number of applications, but when the values start to rise the accuracy of your feel declines. Once you get your torque wrench, don’t use it to loosen bolts. That will put unnecessary wear and tear on your fancy wrench. Breaker bars are cheap and will save you money in the long run.
Miscellaneous
Get yourself a roll of baling wire or even a wire hanger will do in a pinch. A couple pieces up to 24” in length will do the trick. Keep them around for next time.
The Process
Nearly all motorcycles will follow the same steps and in the same order. Follow this sequence and it will go smoothly.
Support motorcycle with front and rear stands
Attach bailing wire from area near headstock
Remove brake calipers and hang from bailing wire
Loosen pinch bolts on end of fork on the axle side only
Loosen axle
Slide axle out while supporting wheel
Remove the Brake Calipers
Once your bike is elevated and secure, start with your baling wire. Find a place fairly high up on your bike to wrap the wire around—anything that can support five pounds or so will do. I use the radiator brackets, but the frame would also do. Wrap it around and give it at least one twist so it will hold. The purpose of this is to support the calipers so they don’t put undo stress on the brake lines. They are designed to resist internal pressure, not to hold weight. Most brake calipers will have two bolts holding them to the forks. Loosen and remove the bolts while supporting the caliper. Slide the caliper off the rotor, thread the wire through a bolt hole, lift the caliper to create some slack on the brake line, then twist the wire around itself a time or two. Repeat this process on the other side, assuming you have two calipers. Do not squeeze the brake lever while your wheel is off. Doing so will make reassembly more difficult.
Loosen the pinch bolts
On the axle side, loosen the one or two bolts at the bottom of the fork. You don’t need to remove them, just back them off a little. Do not loosen the pinch bolts on the other side. They are there to hold the nut that the axle threads into.
Loosen the Axle
Have a plan for where your axle is going to go. You will want to keep it nice and clean. My front stand has a tube specifically for the axle. If yours doesn’t maybe have a towel handy. Use your axle tool, socket, and breaker bar. Hold the wheel to prevent it from turning to the side as you lift the breaker bar. The axle will slowly loosen and eventually you will be able to turn it by hand. Check the other side of the axle to make sure the nut isn’t also spinning. If it is, you will need to tighten the pinch bolts on that side until it stops. It is difficult to tell when the threads have fully disengaged, so note if the axle is still working its way out. If not, it’s time to pull it out. The axle is the only part holding your wheel on, so support the weight of the wheel with one hand as you slide the axle out. You’ve successfully accomplished your task.
Reassembly
Putting the wheel back on is the exact opposite of taking it off, but there are some things to note. First, if your axle is dry, consider adding a minimal amount of grease to it. This is only for the purpose of making assembly and disassembly easier, the wheel does not actually spin on the axle, but rather on bearings on the wheel so don’t get carried away. Secondly, have your torque specs ready for all three areas; axle, pinch bolts, and caliper bolts. Tighten them accordingly. These components are the most critical to safe operation of your bike.
