How To: Change Motorcycle Engine Oil
Changing the oil regularly is perhaps the best way for you to extend the life of your motorcycle. Compared to cars, it’s also really easy to do since it requires way fewer tools to accomplish the same task and you don’t have to slide under a 3,000 pound beast to do it. I often see comments from people about how expensive it is to service their motorcycle and often those same people feel as if they lack the mechanical aptitude to do much of it themselves. They might be surprised to know they already have most of the tools on hand already, and those they don’t are pretty inexpensive. Buying the tools needed to change oil can pay for themselves in just one change.
Tools and Supplies Required to Change Oil
Filter Wrench
Socket with Ratchet or Wrench
Oil Drain Pan
Paper Towels
Gloves
Funnel
Motorcycle Engine Oil
Engine Oil Filter
Filter Wrenches
Oil filter wrenches come five basic styles; strap, swivel, cap, pliers, and three-jaw. You can find a full assortment at most parts stores or online retailers.
Strap/Swivel
The strap and swivel style are similar in that they employ a band with a handle for leverage. They are both capable of loosening and tightening filters without damaging them, which is not something all wrenches can do. The strap type have a rubber strap that wraps around the filter and it can accommodate any size filter. Swivel wrenches use a metal band. While these do have a limit to their adjustability, a set of two is enough to accommodate just about any filter you ever come up against whether it be car or motorcycle. Either style can be used for removal or installation, if you want to give the filter that extra quarter turn. If your application has the room, as the SV650 does, these are both good options.
Cap Wrench
There are also wrenches that fit on the end of the filter called a cap wrench. For some applications there is very little room to work so these are the only wrenches that can do the job. This is more likely the case if you own a newer bike. Engineers have become increasingly conscious of packaging everything as tightly as possible over the years. My 2019 Triumph Speed Twin, for example, was built with an oil pan that surrounds most of the filter, leaving only a small area to the back and the top of the filter exposed. If you choose—or if it’s required for your bike—a cap filter wrench is specific to the size of filter you are using. It must match not only the diameter of the filter, but also match the number of flutes, which are the flat spots around the top. For this reason, it is best to buy the filter and cap wrench at the same time so you can verify that you are getting the correct tool for the job. It must match exactly because close enough won’t be good enough when the time comes. These are the best choice when you can’t access the sides of the filter and they’re suitable for both filter installation and removal.
Filter Pliers
Filter pliers are good for difficult extraction jobs, but they do carry a risk as they are destructive. They work by aggressively gripping two sides of the filter canister and they will crush it given sufficient force. Once that happens, your extraction options are limited. While each set of pliers will accommodate a wide variety of filters, you’d need a set of two to ensure you can cover the full range of filter diameters. They require a lot of room around the sides of the filter and they should only be used to remove filters, never to install them.
Three-Jaw
Similarly, the three-jaw adjustable style that attach to a ratchet fit a range of filter sizes and they are destructive. They require slightly more room around the sides of the filter than the cap wrench, but less than any other style.
Another Option
There is one last option that really isn't a wrench at all. You can purchase a filter with a welded on provision for a wrench or ratchet. K&N is the biggest brand to offer these filters. Basically, there is a cap wrench built right in. They are more expensive than most, but they are the ones I choose for my Speed Twin. The factory installed my OEM filter so tight it literally took me over an hour to remove it and I will happily pay a few extra dollars to never experience that again.
Standard Wrenches
For the drain plug you’ll need an appropriately sized wrench. Whether it is an open end, closed end, or a socket wrench doesn’t matter. I would avoid adjustable wrenches for this operation. They have an affinity for rounding off the bolts and that would be problematic to say the least. For my application, I needed a 14mm, but yours may vary.
Oil Drain Pan
You will need to drain the oil into a container and that container needs to be suitable for disposal, whether you need to transport it or decant it into another vessel. They can be found at any parts store. Most of them have a capacity around six quarts or more which is plenty for even two oil changes. Those with a large opening and a grate are best. The larger the opening the less accurate you need to be with your placement, decreasing the likelihood of spilling used motor oil all over the floor, which brings us to our next point.
There are only a few basic designs for drain pans, but one of them is superior to the others. I will save you time, it’s the large lid pan. While the lid is typically poor sealing, this requires the least clean up of all designs. Get this one. The other two require that the oil drain onto the top of the container and/or a dedicated funnel. These are lame. You’ll find yourself wiping them down and still they’ll never be very clean, just a disgusting lump of plastic sitting in your garage, polluting everything that touches it. Somehow all three of these have 4.5 stars on Amazon, so go figure.
Paper Towels
You are going to spill oil somewhere, guaranteed. If you’re really good, it will only be on your fingers. If you’re not…well, let’s just say it’s always best to be prepared—bring the entire roll.
Gloves
They’re not strictly necessary, but they are nice to have if only to keep your hands clean. Technically, used motor oil is a carcinogen, but unless you are doing this professionally that is not going to be a concern. Still less exposure is better and fewer trips to the Gojo pump is a good thing.
Funnel
Any funnel that gets the job done is a good funnel. Personally, I prefer disposable paper funnels. They ensure I don’t contaminate my fluids and I never have to clean them. What’s more, I believe they are less wasteful since they use less paper than the towel you would need to clean a plastic funnel. Either way, no judgments here, just get one that works.
Engine Oil
There is a lot that can be written about oil formulations, weights, and brands, but to keep it simple, use motorcycle-specific oil in the weight specified by your owners manual for the temperature range you experience. Any major brand of motorcycle engine oil will suffice; Bel-Ray, Castrol, Maxima, Mobil, Motorex, Motul, etc. If you’re curious to learn more, read on. I keep it as succinct as possible.
Can I use the Same Oil I Use for my Car?
No. Motorcycle engines require specialized engine oil due to various factors that make them different from their car counterparts. Motorcycles engines operate at higher RPMs, generating more heat and placing greater stress on the engine. As a result, motorcycle engine oil needs to possess superior thermal stability and resistance to oxidative breakdown.
More importantly, motorcycles commonly employ a wet clutch system that operates within the same oil bath as the engine. This requires the use of specialized oils with friction modifiers to prevent slipping and maintain consistent clutch performance.
Synthetic or traditional Motor Oil?
Synthetic motor oil offers several distinct advantages. First and foremost, synthetic oil provides superior lubrication, reducing friction and wear on engine components. This results in extended engine life and improved overall performance. Synthetic oil also features better resistance to high temperatures and oxidation, making it more durable and less prone to breakdown. This allows for longer oil change intervals, reducing maintenance costs and minimizing downtime. Furthermore, synthetic oil flows more easily at low temperatures, ensuring quicker engine start-ups in cold weather conditions. While synthetic oil carries a higher price tag than traditional oil, its numerous benefits make it a worthwhile investment for those seeking optimal engine protection and performance. Older bikes have the option of cheaper oils because they were designed to use it, but newer bikes with their closer tolerances usually specify synthetics.
What is Motor Oil Weight?
Motor oil weight refers to its viscosity, or thickness, which plays a crucial role in maintaining an engine's performance and longevity. The viscosity of motor oil is measured using numerical values such as 10W-40. The "W" stands for winter, indicating the oil's capability to perform in colder temperatures, while the numbers indicate its performance in hotter conditions. Lower numbers, like 10W, indicate a thinner consistency, ensuring smooth lubrication during cold starts. On the other hand, higher numbers, like 40, signify a thicker oil that can withstand high operating temperatures. Selecting the appropriate motor oil weight for a motorcycle is crucial, as it ensures optimal protection for the engine, allows for efficient lubrication, and promotes fuel efficiency.
You can vary from the weight the owners manual suggests if you feel your specific application warrants it, but if you do so, be sure you understand how that will affect your engine. For example, I use Castrol Power 1 synthetic 10W-50 in both of my bikes. I use it in the Triumph because my riding is all on the street and that is what the manual calls for. Suzuki didn’t engineer their SV to be a track bike. It was designed to be a basic UJM or Universal Japanese Motorcycle that was as approachable as it was affordable. Other than cold starts, my track bike is constantly being used at high RPM and high temperatures. The added high-temperature viscosity of the 50 weight ensures the engine internals are being well lubricated.
Oil Filters
Without a filter, oil would get contaminated very quickly. The combustion process produces a lot of byproducts that harm the oil’s performance. It’s a necessary part of the engine lubrication system. The oil pump inside the engine constantly forces oil directly to the filter through the holes in its perimeter. From there, the oil is passed through the filter media, and the relatively decontaminated oil flows back out the center.
Why Do I Need to Change the Filter?
Changing oil filters is an essential part of regular vehicle maintenance. It plays a crucial role in preserving the health and longevity of the engine. As the engine oil circulates through the system, it picks up dirt, debris, and contaminants. Over time, these impurities can clog the oil filter, hindering its ability to effectively clean the oil. A clogged filter can lead to reduced oil flow, increased pressure on the engine, and decreased lubrication. By regularly changing the oil filter, we ensure that the engine receives clean and debris-free oil, allowing it to operate smoothly and efficiently. This simple yet crucial maintenance task not only promotes optimal engine performance but also extends the lifespan of the engine, ultimately saving us from costly repairs and replacements in the long run. I chose to replace filters with every oil change. Other than the $10 or so it costs, there is no downside to changing filters and you’re in there any way, right?
What Brand of Filter Should I Use?
There are many brands of filter, but in reality they are all made by the same three companies and rebranded. When it comes to motorcycle filters, the choice is further narrowed. I prefer to use the manufacturer branded filters because I believe they are of a more consistently high quality, but I don’t have any issues using other brands such as Fram or Wix when factory filters are either unavailable or too costly. The good thing about motorcycle filters is they are all made in black so they don’t look hideous on the bike. If you purchased one and it isn’t black, that raises a red flag that it might not be correct for your application. As I mention in the video, always compare your new filter to the old one to ensure that it is a match. The number of holes in the bottom is not critical. What is critical is the o-ring diameter. Incorrect filters can cause leaks which are a major safety concern on a motorcycle due to the rear tire’s location directly behind the filter.
Changing Motorcycle Engine Oil
This is definitely something you can take on in your garage or driveway. As long as you are armed with the tools and supplies listed above, you are ready to go.
11 steps to changing your bike’s oil and filter:
Remove the drain plug to drain the used oil
Remove the oil filter
Replace the oil filter
Replace the drain plug
Remove the oil fill plug
Fill with new oil to the fill line
Replace the oil fill plug
Start engine briefly
Inspect oil level and top off as necessary
Replace oil fill plug
Dispose of used oil and filter responsibly
The best way to describe all of these steps is to show you. Refer to the video near the top of the page for instructions as I perform the task on my 2003 Suzuki SV650. Before you start, be sure to look up the proper way to dispose of your used oil in your area. My father would put his oil in an old coffee can, tape the lid shut, and toss it in the trash can, but we can be more responsible than that, right? For more in our How To series, click here.
